The Rise of Butter in American Cuisine
The Butter Board Phenomenon
Butter has made a remarkable comeback in American kitchens, and much of this resurgence can be attributed to a strategic public relations campaign by the US dairy industry. The marketing group Dairy Management has taken credit for the viral butter board trend, which gained popularity through a video by chef Doiron. Although her initial video lacked an advertising disclosure, she was part of Dairy Management’s “Dairy Dream Team” of paid influencers at the time.
Dairy Management’s Influence
Dairy Management, funded by fees collected from farmers, is one of several government-supported dairy marketing groups. Another notable group is the Fluid Milk Board, which has enlisted celebrities like Emily Ratajkowski and Kelly Ripa to promote milk on social media. Dairy Management has also collaborated with mega-influencer MrBeast, featuring him in videos promoting dairy products.
McDonald’s Partnership
One of Dairy Management’s significant achievements was the viral success of McDonald’s Grimace shake, which became a sensation on TikTok. Dairy Management has had a long-standing partnership with McDonald’s, even placing dairy scientists at the fast-food chain to incorporate more dairy into the menu. Today, a significant portion of McDonald’s menu items contain dairy, thanks to this collaboration.
“My hope is that farmers, when they see a new milkshake or a new McFlurry at McDonald’s, that they know that it’s their new product,”
– Dairy Management CEO Barbara O’Brien
Expanding Dairy in Fast Food
Dairy Management has also partnered with other food companies to introduce dairy-rich products. For instance, they worked with Taco Bell to launch a frozen drink mixing dairy with Mountain Dew and a cheese-loaded burrito. They also supported Domino’s in rolling out pepperoni-stuffed cheesy bread and assisted General Mills with their Oui yogurt line.
The Environmental Impact
Growing Environmental Concerns
As dairy consumption and production increase, so does the industry’s environmental footprint. In 2019, the EPA estimated that US dairy cattle emitted 1,729,000 tons of methane annually, equivalent to the pollution from 11.5 million gasoline-powered cars. A United Nations report found that global greenhouse gas emissions from the dairy sector rose by 18 percent between 2005 and 2015.
The Struggle of Dairy Farmers
Despite these promotional efforts, the number of US dairy farms has decreased by three-quarters over the past 30 years. Rising costs and fluctuating milk prices have driven many small and midsize farms out of business. In 2000, farms with more than 2,000 cattle produced less than 10 percent of milk, but by 2016, these large farms accounted for over 30 percent of US production. This trend has led some farmers to question whether the focus on market growth is the best policy.
The Dairy Act and Farmer Contributions
Since the Dairy Act was passed in the 1980s, farmers have been required to contribute 15 cents per hundred-weight of milk towards industry promotion programs overseen by the USDA. Ten cents go to local promotion entities, and five cents to the national Dairy Board, which promotes all dairy products. In 2021, farmer contributions to the national program totaled $124.5 million.
Conclusion
The US dairy industry’s PR efforts have successfully increased the popularity of dairy products, but this growth comes with environmental and economic challenges. As the industry continues to evolve, it remains to be seen how these factors will balance out in the long term.### The Dairy Industry’s Financial Structure and Promotional Efforts
Dairy Management and Fluid Milk Board
The Dairy Board channels funds to Dairy Management, while milk processors contribute to the Fluid Milk Board. This board focuses on promoting milk and related products like flavored milk, buttermilk, and eggnog. In 2021, the Fluid Milk Board collected $82.4 million in processor fees, with its marketing arm known as MilkPEP.
“All dairy research, promotion content and information not only complies with all regulations and standards, but also seeks to help consumers make informed decisions about the foods they choose for themselves and their families, including nutritious, sustainably produced dairy.”
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Financial Impact of Checkoff Programs
These programs, referred to as “checkoffs” by farmers, generate over $200 million annually for the dairy industry. The industry highlights its achievements, such as a 43% increase in cheese usage at Domino’s Pizza stores within the first eight years of their partnership.
Promotional Campaigns: Successes and Failures
While some campaigns have been successful, others have flopped. For example, the Fluid Milk Board’s attempt to mock plant-based milk alternatives by hiring actor Aubrey Plaza to promote “wood milk” led to a formal complaint from physicians advocating plant-based diets. Another campaign featured Queen Latifah on a board-funded website aimed at combating “milk shaming.”
Subtle Marketing Strategies
In 2021, the Fluid Milk Board sponsored a wellness weekend for top editors at a luxury Hamptons resort, where they enjoyed milk-inclusive meals. The board also held USDA-approved advertising contracts with Vice Media and Food52 to develop milk-inclusive recipe content.
Economic Returns on Marketing Investments
A USDA report to Congress indicated that farmers earn $1.91 for every dollar spent on fluid milk promotion, $3.27 for cheese, and $24.11 for butter. An independent evaluation by the Government Accountability Office found that the fluid milk program returned $2.14 for every dollar spent between 1995 and 2012.
Challenges and Concerns
Declining Fluid Milk Consumption
Despite overall growth in dairy consumption, fluid milk consumption has been declining since the 1970s. This poses challenges for climate action, as meat and dairy consumption accounts for 75% of diet-related greenhouse gas emissions in the U.S.
Impact on Small-Scale Farmers
Small-scale farmers worry that the focus on demand growth benefits large producers, pushing smaller farms out of the market. Wisconsin farmer and former Dairy Board member Rose Lloyd expressed concerns about the checkoff system:
“[The checkoff is] set up to be entirely demand-side. You’re not allowed to talk about price, you’re not allowed to talk about supply. It’s a wasted effort.”
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Lloyd’s farm, which has 350 cows, faces challenges from neighboring farms that have expanded significantly, leading to local environmental issues.
Potential Solutions: Supply Management
Some farm groups hope to persuade Congress to pass supply-management legislation to limit total milk production. This model, similar to one in Canada, could ensure a market for all produced dairy and stabilize prices.
The Canadian Model
In Canada, annual dairy demand is forecasted and divided among provincial boards, which distribute production quotas to farmers. This system guarantees minimum prices but is controversial due to high tariffs on imported milk and challenges for new producers.
Future Prospects
Legislative Efforts
The National Family Farmers Coalition (NFFC) is advocating for the Milk from Family Dairies Act, which would establish price minimums and production quotas. However, Antonio Tovar, senior policy associate at the NFFC, is skeptical about the bill’s chances due to congressional gridlock.
Export Market Focus
The dairy checkoff is now targeting the export market, promoting pizza in the Middle East and Asia. In Japan, a “New Yorker pizza” topped with a kilogram of cheese was launched in partnership with Domino’s and later introduced in Taiwan.
CAPTION: A farmer moves cows into a barn for their evening milking near Cambridge, Wisconsin, in 2017.
CREDIT: Scott Olson/Getty Images
CAPTION: The Office actor Brian Baumgartner poses for a 2023 promotional photo for “Never Doubt What You Love,” a pro-dairy parody news campaign created by the California Milk Processor Board.
CREDIT: Rachel Murray for CMPB/Getty Images
For more information, visit the Fluid Milk Board and Dairy Management.### The Cheese Challenge in Fast-Food Chicken Sandwiches
Current State of Cheese in Fast-Food
In a 2022 blog post, Dairy Management chair Marilyn Hershey highlighted a surprising statistic: 80 percent of the 2 billion chicken sandwiches sold annually in the US do not include a slice of cheese.
Efforts to Increase Cheese Usage
To address this, the Dairy Management organization has been actively collaborating with major fast-food chains like Chick-fil-A, Raising Cane’s, and McDonald’s. Their goal is to encourage these brands to add cheese to their chicken sandwich offerings.
The checkoff, she wrote, was engaging with Chick-fil-A, Raising Cane’s, and McDonald’s to change that.
3 Comments
And here I thought it was just catchy dance trends driving views on TikTok, not Big Dairy with a side of government help!
Seriously, who knew dairy and TikTok would be the new power couple with a little nudge from Uncle Sam to boot?
So what’s next, beef influencers supported by the Pentagon?